Brewed for Sea Country: The Story Behind 'Uni'

What if a beer could spark meaningful conversations about ecology, culture, and climate change? That’s exactly the idea behind Uni – a bold, briny, lemon myrtle-infused beer brewed by Sailors Grave in partnership with the Great Southern Reef Foundation (GSRF).

Noel and Trish Butler of Nura Gunyu

Originally brewed for the Mallacoota Seafood Festival, Uni was “a kind of ‘eat the problem’ idea,” explains head brewer Chris Moore. But it was also a continuation of a long-standing friendship and creative partnership with Budawang Elder Uncle Noel and Cultural Educator Trish Butler of Nura Gunyu. “We’ve worked with Noel and Trish on several projects over the years,” Chris says. “They’re not just collaborators – they’re friends.” For this brew, they once again contributed hand-harvested lemon myrtle from their property on Yuin Country, bringing cultural depth and a sense of place to the beer.

The Uni beer combines locally harvested longspined sea urchin – a species whose population explosion is devastating kelp forests across the Great Southern Reef – with lemon myrtle and a crisp sour base. “It sounds like a weird beer, but it's very refreshing,” Chris says. “You get this deep briny umami layer... lifted with a touch of citrus character. Anyone who tries it is like, ‘Oh, that's actually delicious.’”

But Uni is more than flavour. It’s storytelling in a can.

beers of place

“Sailors Grave is about beers of place,” says Gab, co-founder of the brewery. “To express the kind of environment and community of East Gippsland – that sense of belonging is integral to our brand and our being.” The brewery itself is named after a beloved cove near Cape Conran, where Gab spent summers as a child. The newly built ‘Dune Town’ taproom and production site continues that ethos, designed as a circular economy business and community hub.

Caring for Country, Above and Below the Tide

For Noel and Trish Butler, the Uni beer collaboration is part of a much deeper story—one of cultural continuity, environmental care, and restoring connection to Country, including Sea Country. “It was just a natural way of life,” says Uncle Noel, “living in your environment and being responsible for it—not just for yourself, but for everyone who shares it. You don’t take more than you need. You don’t destroy what can’t replenish itself.”

That philosophy holds particular weight when it comes to the sea. “We’ve seen how some things in the ocean—like the urchins—have started to take over and damage other parts of the ecosystem,” he explains. “It’s another example of what happens when balance is lost.”

A longspined sea urchin barren – once thriving kelp forest, now stripped bare.

Teaching Through Taste and Story

Through their cultural education work, the Butlers use native foods and plants to teach people how to reconnect with place. “If Australians understood the value of our own plants—whether for food, medicine, or ceremony—maybe more people would learn to really care for this Country,” Noel says. “That’s how we change how people see the land and sea: by helping them feel connected to it.”

Trish, who co-writes children’s books and songs with Noel, adds: “It’s important for the future because the young ones are our future. If everyone understood our birds, our animals, their habitats, people would be connected to land and sea. That’s why we share the culture and the stories.”

A Can for the Kelp

The Uni beer, now in its fifth edition, uses sea urchins harvested by local diver Jason York. With each can or pint poured, it raises awareness of the urchin crisis and supports GSRF’s education and storytelling efforts – including community screenings of White Rock, a new documentary that explores the scale of the crisis and its solutions.

Brewing Change

“Beer is a great vehicle for stories,” says Gab. “Sharing a beer is a great way to start a conversation – even the hard ones. And Uni opens doors. It shines a light in areas not often looked at.”

To continue the conversation, Sailors Grave is hosting a special event at their Dune Town brewery this coming Saturday, 17th May. The evening will feature a screening of White Rock, followed by an expert Q&A panel discussion, sea urchin tastings, and of course, plenty of Uni on tap. It’s a celebration of culture, science, and local collaboration – and a reminder that sometimes, meaningful change can begin with a single shared drink. Get tickets here.

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